
The four years that I have been living in Singapore have been a roller coaster ride of highs and lows. I actually first came to Singapore with virtually no money at all to my name. Making the decision to move to Singapore was a scary one - I was not lured here by some billion dollar MNC like most ang moh's, it was 100% my choice. But, looking back retrospectively, I am sure coming to Singapore was a decision well made.
There was, however, one thing I have always regretted. I have always longed to see what Singapore was like 40-50 years ago. Before the mindless destruction of almost all natural land, before obsession with materialism and money swept the nation, before everyone submitted to the 'kiasu' fast paced lifestyle - That has now become the norm in this country. The Singapore of the past was a more dirty, smelly, messy, disorganized and unhygienic place - Sounds like a bad thing? Not at all, because when you conglomerate all these nuances together - It becomes a
personality - The one thing Singapore lacks the most in 2013.
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Prior to Singapore gaining independence, hawkers were only found on the streets of Singapore. Some stalls fixed in one location, and open all day. Others opening only at night. Back then, there was no such thing as a 'vegetarian' hawker stall. These hawkers typically specialised in just one dish - Such as wanton mee, kway teow soup etc. These food streets were notorious for selling dirt cheap food (a bowl of noodles was as low as 10 cents), which tasted fantastic - My idea of heaven.
The
1960s in Singapore marked a significant shift in the way people ate hawker food. The government launched a project that would scoop hawkers up off the streets and place them in less conjested areas - Such as carparks, back lanes and empty spaces of land. This change, which happened in the late 1960's was a temporary solution. Eventually, this led to the hawkers being permanently relocated to official hawker centres in the 1970s and 1980s - This incidentally is when the first 'Vegetarian' stalls were found. Most the vegetarian restaurants from the 1960s have closed down. Arguably the most famous olden style eatery was
Loke Woh Yuen Vegetarian Restaurant (that had a history of over 80 years in Singapore), which sadly closed down in 2011. There is one, however, that was running in the 1950s and 1960s and is
still alive and strong in 2013. That restaurants name is
Zen Fut Sai Kai Vegetarian Restaurant.
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Zen Fut Sai Kai Vegetarian Restaurant
Location: 147 Kitchener Road
Contact: 62912350 Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 10.00am - 9.30pm |
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| The interior design remains almost entirely unchanged from 1953. The only change being the installation of air con. The central picture is Mdm Ko Oie Tim, the creator and founder of the restaurant. |
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The cover of the menu.
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| Hungry Ang Mo posing with the family staff and owner of Zen Fut Sai Kai. |

After interviewing the staff and owners of this eatery, I found it amazing to discover how well the dishes available have been kept unchanged. Every single dish on the menu is exactly the same as those from the 1950's and 1960's - There have been no changes. This establishment has remained so preserved and unaltered, that it really feels like going back to the 1960s as soon as you step foot inside.
Every time I visit this establishment, I always like to kick my meal off with the
Kum Loo Wantan. Admittedly, I am not a fan of fried food. Therefore, the fact that I crave for this dish should be seen as a testament to the quality of this dish. The skin of the wantons don't have that icky greasy component, which typically deters me from choosing fried food. Instead, the skin is light, crunchy and has a juicy stuffing in the center. This stuffing is chiefly comprised of diced mushrooms. Served on the side is a mild sweet and sour sauce, which the wantons can be dipped into.
The signature dish, which the owners pride themselves on the most, is the
Kwai Hou Loo Mee. On a visual level, this dish was expertly crafted and looked simply exquisite on the plate. The top layer is beancurd sheets, which are chopped in a way which resembles mock chicken. It has a golden brown outer skin, which was a little salty, but quite flavourful. Below this is a mixture of beancurd and mushroom stem mock meat, which has been soaked in a thick and rich special sauce - Which in many ways resembles the sauce one typically gets with a good kway chap. Excellent dish.
A dish that highlights the importance of quality and freshness of ingredients is the
Vegetarian Egg Puffs with Asparagus. Don't be fooled by the misleading English name - There are no eggs in any dishes served at this restaurant. The 'puffs' can be more accurately described as beancurd dumplings, something that is quite unique. The straw mushrooms are large in size and incredibly fresh. The asparagus was cooked just perfectly.
Conclusion - There are several eateries in Singapore, such as Happy Realm and Miao Yi,
which have been around for 25-30 years now. However, if you want to step into a restaurant and truly feel like you have been transported back in time, to the 1960s, then there is only one place to visit - Zen Fut Sai Kai. This brilliant restaurant allows us to take a glimpse into the history of vegetarian food in Singapore, which is a remarkable thing.
Note - Credit to http://www.myhawkers.sg for black & white images